So, I have decided to start my own list of spots with a concentration of problems here. If anyone knows of any spots that I have missed, please feel free to add a comment!
All areas are accessible by bicycle / foot (some better than others) and many by public transportation, as noted.
The areas marked in green on the map are open to bouldering, either officially, or at least inofficially with little chance of getting in trouble.
Areas marked in red are either officially closed to bouldering, no longer in existance, or where a run-in with security and/or police is highly likely.
Tut mir leid, daß ich noch nichts auf Deutsch geschrieben habe. Da es um Bouldern in Leipzig geht, wäre das bestimmt sinnvoll. Vielleicht werde ich irgendwann mal eine Deutsche Übersetzung schreiben.
Alte Messe
Popular spot for boulderers of all abilities. The sandstone blocks offer easy-ish bouldering on positive grippy edges of varying depth. By eliminating edges and using the slate and concrete around the sandstone area more difficult problems are available.
As of 2021, La Playa is gone and the wall is accessible again.
Topo: Aufschwung Ost, pp. 292-295
Access: 5 min walk from Dt. Nationalbibliothek (Tram: 2, 16 / Bus: 74) or Altes Messegelände (Tram: 2, 15 / Bus: 74)
Aurelienbrücke
Not only the abutments below this bridge offer some good bouldering. There are lots of additional opportunities on both bridges and retaining walls in both directions along the canal. e.g. the 3rd pic shows the retaining wall further east (below the MerseburgerStr ramp).
Topo: Aufschwung Ost, pp. 282-285
Access: 5 min walk from Karl-Heine-/Gießerstraße or Karl-Heine-/Merseburger Straße (Tram: 14)
Bruno-Plache-Stadion
A good place to get a feel for climbing crumbly sandstone. The bouldering is better than it looks and sounds, and although most problems and the traverse aren't necessarily hard, they offer some pretty fun and interesting sandstone climbing.
Description: Aufschwung Ost, p. 406
Access: 5 min walk from Probstheida (Tram: 2, 15 / Bus: 75, 76, 79)
DHFK-Wand / Zeppelinbrücke
One of the more well known and visited bouldering spots in Leipzig. Lots problems involving pockets and edges, including a looooong traverse, along the main wall (ssee photo). In addition to the main wall, the much lower south wall (currently being renovated!) is around the corner to the right, and the Zeppinbrücke (just to the N of the main wall, both sides of the river) offer many more defined problems.
Topo: Aufschwung Ost, pp. 272-277
Access: short walk from Sportforum (Tram: 3, 7, 8, 15 / Bus: 131)
Eilenburger Bahnhof
WYSIWYG It isn't much...
Description: Aufschwung Ost, p. 406
Access: 5 min walk from Riebeck-/Oststraße (Tram: 4 / Bus: 60, 70)
Eisenbahbrücke Luppe
Too little, too far away. Not bad bouldering, but quite green and overgrown. The southern abutment is also a bit of a hassle to get to.
Topo: N/A
| Access: | The south side: preferably by mountain bike, either from Gustav-Esche-Straße along the Luppe or through the Auenwald. |
| The north side: bike along the Elster-Radweg. |
Eisenbahnbrücke Zweinauendorfer Straße
The bridge is no longer there, but the abutment has been left intact. The paving of the bikeway has set the wall free of the brush...for now at least.
Watch out for the "landmines".
Description: Aufschwung Ost, p. 406
Access: 5-10 min walk from S-Bahnhof Anger-Crottendorf (S-Bahn: 1 / Bus: 72, 73)
K4
The actual bouldering wall isn't much to talk about, but the bouldering around the base of the tower is good.
Topo: Aufschwung Ost, pp. 286-291
Access: short walk from Stuttgarter Allee (Tram: 1, 2)
Klingerbrücke
DWS
Topo: N/A
Access: short walk from Klingerweg (Tram: 1, 2) / Boat
Landauerbrücke
Nice limestone!
Topo: Aufschwung Ost, pp. 262-265
Access: bike / walk along the Elster-Radweg or Hans-Driesch-Straße
Ost-Straße
Lots of potential here for new boulder problems on four separate abutments! The traverse on the NE abutment (in red below) is about Fb. trav 5c from R-2-L and a bit harder L-2-R. The concrete foundation is allowed for the feet.
Topo: see below
Access: short walk from Lipsiusstraße (Bus: 60)
Palmengarten
A collection mostly easy to moderate problems on some of 70 limestone pillars in a nice quiet park next to the Elster. Although not all pillars have problems defined on the topo, every pillar should theoretically be climbable one way or another...
Topo: Aufschwung Ost, pp. 268-271
Access: 5 min walk east of Angerbrücke (Tram: 3, 7, 8, 15 / Bus: 74, 130, 131)
Parthe-Flutbecken
Almost feels like bouldering at a "real" crag, especially the crumbly bits. Topping out can be high enough to make a 2nd pad worthwhile...
Topo: Aufschwung Ost, pp. 278-281
Access: short walk from Hauptbahnhof (Tram: all / S-Bahn: all / Bus: many)
Robert-Koch-Platz
Maybe not the most challenging boulder problems for adults, but not bad for young aspiring boulderers...
Topo: N/A
Access: 5 min walk from Am Mückenschlößchen (Tram: 4)
Semmelweißbrücke
Due to the bridge's proximity to the S-Bahn Station (MDR), I have only posted photos / topos of problems on the north-side. There are many more both completed and potential problems closer to the station, but bouldering within view of the platform or trains is not recommended. The fuzz (DB security or state police) will definitely have something to say if they catch you.
Topo: see below. I am not good at grading boulder problems, but would say the problems marked in red are about Fb. 4a and those in blue about Fb. 4c.
Access: S-Bahn / Bus
S-Bahnbrücke Eutritzsch
Most of the defined problems are only accessible through the old (private and fenced-off!) factory and are very visible to neighbors on the other side of the bridge. So, bouldering is neither officially allowed nor recommended.
Topo: Aufschwung Ost, pp. 404-405
Access: short walk from S-Bahnhof Gohlis (Tram: 12 / S-Bahn: 1, 3) or Wilhelminenstraße (Tram: 16)
Slevogtstraße
Lots of splitter cracks! Fingers, hands, fists, jam, layback, it is all here. The insides of the cracks are pretty smooth, but the dark gray outer surface of the ribbed sections is crazy rough and will shred both skin and rubber should you even think about slipping. The gray stuff is basically just fine sharp gravel glued together, so it can also be a bit crumbly...
A topo or description of individual problems isn't really necessary. The cracks vary only in width and height, so difficulty mostly depends on hand-size and preferred crack technique.
Topo: see below
Access: S-Bahnhof Slevogtstraße (S-Bahn: S3 / Bus: 80, 90)
Stötteritz
A good place to practice some shallow arm-bars on walls of perfect bouldering height. The walls have been nicely cleaned up during the construction of the new bridge. Some easy problems have already been done, others are being worked on and, there is still some good potential for harder problems.
All problems have so far been done with standing-starts and the finished defined as both hands on the edge of the ledge. Topping out onto the ledge is an easy additional finish option for all problems (though a bit "green" above the south wall). Topo: see below
Access: S-Bahnhof Stötteritz (S-Bahn: 1, 3)
North Wall (L-2-R): Fb. 4a | Fb. 4c | Fb. 4b | Fb. 5a | Fb. 4b | project | Fb. 5a | Fb. 5a/b | Fb. 5b | Fb. 4b | Fb. 4b | Fb. 4b | Fb. 4b | Fb. 4a
South Wall (L-2-R): Fb. 3 | Fb. 4b | Fb. 4a | Fb. 4c | Fb. 2 (using only the blocks directly up the arete = Fb. 3) | project (the "chimney") | Fb. 2 | Fb. 5a | Fb. 4b | Fb. 4a | project | Fb. 2 | project (the narrow wall between the recess and dihedral)
Völkerschlachtdenkmal
Potentially one of the most well known (if not officially allowed) bouldering spots in Leipzig. Such a mass of stone does just beg to be climbed...
As can be seen in the photo, restoration of the bunkers has begun. After completion, many of the currently defined problems will be gone or at least have become much much harder!
Topo: Aufschwung Ost, pp. 296-306
Access: short walk from Leipzig Völkerschlachtdenkmal (Tram: 2, 15 / S-Bah:n 1, 3)
Wurzner / Riesaer Straße Bahnbrücke
TEXT HERE
Topo: N/A
Access: short walk from Ostheimstraße (Tram: 7, 8)
PHOTO HERE
agra-Park
Though definitely not a bouldering destination, the agra-Park does have a couple of problems to offer if you happen to be passing by.
All of the problems on the stonehenge-ish "Wiege" are sit-starts:
A) the descent route in reverse direction
B) escape from below the nose out left w/o using the top of the pillar
C) (the first to feel like a true boulder problem) tackle the nose "head-on" exiting slightly right of center and w/o using the top of the pillar
D) not really inspiring, just....whatever
E) shimmy up bewteen the pillars as a chimney (going to be a real challenge if you are tall!) and exit up the east face
F) (the most technically challenging problem) follows the NE corner using holds to either side as needed, still harder than it looks!
G) using the drill-hole on the NW side and non-existant foot holds to start, pull hard once w/o slipping off and it is pretty much over
Topo: N/A
Access: 10 min walk from Leinestraße (Tram: 11)
Cottaweg - RB Trainingszentrum
TEXT HERE
Topo: N/A
Access: 5 min walk from Angerbrücke (Tram: 7, 8, 15 / Bus: 74, 130)
PHOTO HERE
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